Blissful Trek to Lomanthan

Heaven knows I am fortunate one because; I had this opportunity once again to visit - Lo-Manthang, Upper Mustang this year. Both trek schedule and budget was tight yet we were full of zeal and joy to experience there. We were three - Sumina didi, Raman and myself. Flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara in Buddha Air. In Pokhara to celebrate Dashain festival with my family in-law and it was great time to see all family members together to celebrate Dashian.



The real excitement began on the next day when Raman and I set for Lo-Manthang. As usual flight from Pokhara to Jomsom was delay but the excitement we have for the journey ahead brimmed us with excitement. Weather in Pokahra was so good and we cherish delay time sipping the sight of beautiful Mount Machhapuchera. After the flight resumed, we reached Jomsom and Raman checked if it was possible to book return tickets to Pokhara but it was futile. Anyway, without a delay, we trotted towards our way to Lo-Manthang.



Day one: We trekked from Jomsom to Kagbeni, Kagbeni to Tangbe and Tangbe to Chhusang. On the way I drifted back to old memories when Raman and I had a wonderful time ten years back. It was the most memorable trek which gave a shape to our love into a promise to live together for life.



We took jeep to reach Kagbeni and there was one beautiful Italian lady with us. It was nice to meet people across seven seas. On the way she shared her experience of travelling all alone from Italy. This time it is Nepal and she had been to Manakamana and took this trek all the way alone. Since they were tourist they had to register their permit at most local police posts on the trail to visit Upper Mustang. Within an hour we arrived in Kagbeni and she headed for her own destination. We did the same. Walking sandy trail was a unique experience on a sunny afternoon braving the killer wind. The roaring sound of the Kali Gandaki River entertains us on the trail and we kept stepping ahead on its rhythm.



We stopped for lunch in a local hotel where we enjoyed apple-pie and beautiful view along with people walking in the alleys of Kagbeni. From Kagbeni, we headed for our journey climbing the trials to an edge marked by a chorten. With few ups-downs, narrow and steep trials we kept walking. Our body almost dried and my legs got tired of making further moves. I wanted to take a rest. So, with a sight of a house, we took a rest for a while and filled up our water bottle. I was really tired and wished to get some means to carry myself. I could not believe my eyes when I saw a Jeep running towards us. We hurried to ask if we could get seats for two. I got so excited and regained my spirit to see the natural beauties around while on drive. For an hour drive, we thanked Mr. Gurung and paid fares to the driver and got ready to walk ahead. We took half an hour break in a tea-house. I fell down asleep very quickly as I was feeling an altitude sickness.



Raman woke me to have something to eat but I preferred taking a cup of garlic soup. We left tea-house and continued walking until we found Prakash Guest house—the guest house which was quite famous and preferred by many travelers we met on our way. We received heartily welcome by Laxmi didi. She offered delicious food and arranged a nice room to stay overnight. I could hardly feel any pain and tired muscles with her kind behavior.



Next morning, we took few pictures from the roof top and experienced peaceful atmosphere that we sat in meditation for few minutes. Taking a cup of tea, we set for the journey from Chhusang Village. I was amazed to see such a beautiful place and the surroundings filled with spectacular views—eroded cliffs above inaccessible caves across Kali-Gandaki River, apple farms, isolated and ancient villages, Buddhist monasteries, deep gorges and interesting visitors. On the way, we discovered that we could get a vehicle, a Jeep from Syangboche to Lo-Manthang.



It was again a sunny day and we’d run out of drinking water with empty stomach. We took few bites of apple that we received from Laxmi didi. Raman was such a good trekker that sometime I filled sorry for myself not being able to walk even for an hour. I could feel his warm love and inspiring words to motivate me for speedy walking while it was getting darker.



This day, we walked continuously for ten hours giving only few short breaks. We passed through desert-like high altitude area that climbs in and out in the side of the Kali Gandaki River. Here, many travelers were seen riding horses with loads on its back. I again wished to have one to carry myself when the steep hills come through. Suddenly we heard someone calling Raman asking to click a photo. He seemed to be a familiar face to us and immediately I asked a guy if I could get a ride in one of his horse.



Raman followed us while I was carried up to the hill where we found chortens painted in red and yellow, black and white colors. I thanked them for a horse ride and then walked down the trail descends steeply to Samar. It was getting darker and seemed that our destiny to reach Syangbochen was going to fail. We reached to Bhena and decided to stay there overnight. It was a cool day and we found nice people around to make us comfortable after a long and tiresome journey. There for the first time I saw a smokeless Chinese stove for making fire wood and cooking. We could not sleep tight that night. Early next morning, taking black tea we headed for our continued walking to reach Syangbochen on time to get a Jeep to Lo-Manthang.



We enjoyed beautiful sunrise and cool atmosphere walking up hills and down hills taking a sip of black tea we’d carried on our water bottle. We reached Syangbochen on time and fixed for a Jeep to take us along with other ten people to Lo-Manthang. We entered in a hotel, enjoyed delicious soup and meal to kill the time while we waited for the Jeep. Raman and his friend roamed around taking pictures and get a glimpse of mountain views. We were overjoyed hearing a beep of most awaited Jeep to take us to our destination. Soon we loaded our backpack and got into jeep filling almost all seats and available spaces eager to reach Lo-Manthang. Pasang—the driver was young and kind-hearted to make us feel comfortable and enjoy safe drive. He carefully passes the rocky and dusty roads with such an ease that he sometimes make all the passengers get off the jeep in order to cross narrow passages and streams followed by Kali Gandaki River.



We took a tea break in Tsarang Guest house and enjoyed taking pictures with an old man drying vegetable on the terrace. After a short break we moved ahead and reached to our destination—Lo-Manthang. We found almost all hotels and guest houses packed with visitors, tourists and guides.

Luckily, we could arrange for our night stay at Lo-Manthang Guest house. We had comfortable stay in the guest house with hot water bath and tasty meal offered. We went for the round visit of the palace in the evening.Lo-Manthang is the age old place that preserves the Tibetan culture and traditional beliefs unaffected by country’s political and social changes. Where all the people in the other corner were celebrating the national festival—Dashain, we found Lo-Manthang not acquainted with this festival. We tried to get in touch with King and Queen of Mustang who still resides in the palace, but it was late evening and couldn’t meet till tomorrow at 8 in the morning. So, we turned back to our hotel, visited market place, bought souvenir for the family and fixed for next day’s schedule.



We came to know that there is a Chhosar Cave that we shouldn’t miss to visit which would take one and half hour drive from Lo-Manthang. We decided to visit Chhosar instead of meeting King and Queen in the palace before leaving and took a long breath when the idea of visiting Chhosar got finalized. We got up early, took a cup of black tea with apple pie and set for the adventurous visit to Chosar Cave.



The four storey cave shares important historical story. It is the mysterious creation by our ancestors preserved for the ancient living style. There in an entry gate followed with number of rooms inside. The beautiful views of the himalayan ranges and scenic beauty of Mustang can be viewed from open windows in the cave.



Mr. Krishna and Pasang exchanged their friendship as ‘Meet’ and vowed for trust and companionship throughout the life. After eye-catching memories and views captured in our camera, we left the Chhosar back to Lo-Manthang. We posed for few photographs of the walled city of Lo-Manthang. The Jeep got ready to take us back to Syanbochen. The views of mountanins, monastries , flock of sheep, travelers, ancient caves, chortens kept us busy to get captured in our camera. We arrived to Syanbochen enjoying classic songs played by Pasang. We took the day lunch and prepared to set for the trek back to Chusang according to our plan for the day. With a hazardous walking all the day, we tried to find room in Tangbe, but almost all guest house and hotels were found packed. Without any delay, we decided to walk for an hour and find Prakash Guest House in Chhusang Village. It was late, though Laxmi didi was busy cooking for her guests. We heard her saying no vacant room available for us. She realized there was no choice left for us besides staying there for the overnight stay. I was really tired that I was feeling to get a good night rest anywhere I could found. She somehow managed us a tasty meal and allowed her son’s room to stay that night. We’d fallen asleep very quickly that soon we were awakened with a bright morning glory the next day. We thanked Laxmi didi for her generosity and donated few of our used clothes if they could become useful. She informed us about the time to get the vehicle to Jomsom.



Though the route tough, we met other people hurrying for the transportation and as usual Raman was far ahead of us to get the ticket. Very fortunately, we got last two tickets for us. I was behind and about to leave me with just a minute difference. I could see him getting furious for not moving on time. Finally, we arrived in Jomsom and tried to see if we could get flight tickets to Pokhara.



As there were more adventures waiting for us, we got bus tickets from Jomsom to Ghasa and then get other tickets from there to Beni and again stay overnight or get the ticket from Beni to Pokhara. It was very interesting and adventurous travelling in bus continued till we arrived in Pokhara. When we reached home, we could not stop ourselves sharing our stories, experiences and adventures followed throughout the day we arrived in Pokhara.



The next day, we received tika from our elders and got blessings for the healthy, happy and prosperous life.



We got back to kahmandu and visited my maternal home to receive tika from my parents.